April 2006 - Posts

• How To Have a Comfortable Sleep When Camping!

  Author: Trevor Kassulke The last thing you want to happen when you're 20 miles into the woods is to find your sleeping bag is not warm enough. You will be facing a very long and restless night which can ruin your spirits and sap your strength for the next day. So how do you make sure you've selected the right sleeping bag for your needs? There are several aspects to consider: GOOSE DOWN or SYNTHETIC? There are pros and cons to most of the options available in sleeping bags. Goose down is very warm. It is lightweight to carry and can be easily compressed for travel and quickly regain form when shaken out. It is by far a better choice for backpackers who intend to carry the bag with them for extended trips because of the lighter weight and smaller packing. However, goose down is also more expensive and loses its insulating properties when wet - a consideration if sleeping outdoors or travelling in inclement weather. Synthetic filled bags are cheaper than goose down and retain their warmth even in wet conditions. They dry faster than down and are good choices if travelling by boat or sleeping outdoors on the ground. However, synthetic bags are heavier and larger which can be a downside if you are hiking long distances with the bag. For the average family camper synthetic bags are the least expensive and least affected by wet conditions. If travelling by car to a campground the size and weight of a synthetic bag should not be a problem. RECTANGLE, TAPERED or MUMMY BAG? As with the insulating materials, the shape of bag you choose will depend on your specific needs with pros and cons for each type. Rectangle bags are most similar to bed sleeping and most familiar to the average user. They permit room for movement and you can easily zip two bags together for shared sleeping. However, rectangle bags are the biggest and not the best option for carrying on extended hikes. Tapered bags are somewhat narrower towards the feet area of the sleeping bag. This shape provides less freedom of movement but more warmth because of the restricted space. Mummy bags are the smallest and lightest to carry. They are very snug to the body (as the name suggests) with a hood that can be fitted around the head to conserve the greatest amount of body heat. While the average user may find the mummy bag uncomfortable to sleep in because of the restriction, they are the best choice for cold weather camping and long hikes because of their warmth and small size. WHICH TEMPERATURE RATING? Sleeping bags will list the coldest temperature they are suitable for sleeping in. Depending on if you are camping in the summer or colder months you will need to choose a bag accordingly. Also take into consideration if you are normally cold or hot when sleeping and make the adjustments. In most cases it is recommended to choose a warmer bag since you can always open it for venting if it is too warm. The temperature rating is based on using a sleeping pad under the sleeping bag which conserves body heat from the ground. ADDITIONS: If you frequently camp out you may want to consider a liner for your bag which will increase its warmth and can be washed separately, saving your sleeping bag from extra wear and tear. You can also purchase sleeping bag covers. Some of these can substitute for a warm weather sleeping bag and can extend an all season bag into a cold weather bag by increasing the warmth. They can also provide extra protection from wet conditions and are a good choice for protecting goose down sleeping bags. How comfortable you are when you sleep will drastically affect your enjoyment of a camping or hiking trip. Saving five or ten dollars at the expense of a good nights sleep will not seem like a good idea when you are tired and cold out in the woods, so choose wisely. About the author: http://www.backpackpacker.com/ Posted Apr 26 2006, 03:53 PM by accorie with no comments

• Layering for Cold Weather

  Author: Darron Robbins For many, when the trees shed their leaves, the grass stops growing, and winter sets in, the human hibernation begins. It's time to crawl into a centrally heated cave, and wait out the cold winter months. After all, without a natural fur coat, humans were never meant to brave temperatures below 65 degrees right? Their adaptation comes in the form of a small remote that controls the garage door allowing an uninterrupted climate change from the car to the house. However, with the advent of the outdoor retail trade, the idea of turning otherwise harsh winter conditions into a recreational adventure is proving to be contagious. According to the Outdoor Industry Association, major Outdoor Chains combined with Specialty Stores had an estimated $12.3 billion in sales for 2004 with winter sales up 8.5%. Now, if you're a part of that group chipping in to boost winter sales for the Outdoor Retailers, you're probably spending your hard earned money on gear to help make up where Mother Nature left off. And, when it comes to cold weather, Mother Nature left everything OFF! The problem is, if you're new to dressing for cold weather activities, knowing what to shop for is only half the battle. Winter gear represents a very diverse portion of that $12.3 billion spent in 2004. This article will help you understand the basics of winter dress and guide you in your selection of the proper attire for cold weather activities. First of all, the key to dressing for any winter or cold weather sport is LAYERING. Your body has its own heating and cooling system. Layering is a way of maximizing the efficiency of your body's system. Layering also allows you to adjust to various levels of exertion so that you can maintain a desired comfort range. Layering isn't a new technique. As far back as the early 80's the company Patagonia was instructing the outdoor industry about layering through a series of essays presented in their product catalogs. To begin, there are three main parts to layering. The first part is called the base layer which you will also hear referenced as the "next-to-skin" layer. The second layer is going to be your insulating layer. And your third layer is going to be your outer layer or shell. Your next-to-skin layer is just what it sounds like, an underwear or undergarment that will actually be touching you. This is probably the most critical layer in moderate to high endurance winter activities. As you begin to exert yourself, you sweat. Sweating is your body's way of cooling itself. Cooling is just fine during warm summer sports, but in cold weather it can actually work against you. Your next-to-skin layer should be made of a material that will pull the sweat from your body keeping your skin dry and comfortable. The process of pulling sweat from your skin is often referred to in the outdoor world as "wicking." Underwear designed for wicking come in an array of materials, some natural and some synthetic. The first rule of thumb when choosing a next-to-skin layer is to wear anything but cotton. Cotton wicks sweat, but retains it and takes way too long to dry, which keeps your skin wet and cold. 100% polypropylene is probably the best material for the money. Polypropylene underwear does not absorb any water so it dries very quickly. Polypropylene also has a lower thermal conductivity rate than other fabrics, which means that heat is slow to leave the material. Now, there really are too many fabrics and materials to list. If you are really serious about finding out what will work the best for you, I would suggest getting into some forums and researching what other enthusiasts have experienced and what they recommend. Otherwise, just start with the polypropylene. Polypropylene underwear costs much less than other high tech thermals. Next is your insulating layer. With this layer, you first have to determine how active you will be versus how cold your surrounding temperatures will be. For instance, if you will be snowshoeing(very high intensity) on a cold blustery day, you would probably just want a thin insulating layer just to keep the chill off. But, if you are going to be ice fishing(low or no intensity) all day in below freezing temperatures, you would need a much thicker insulating layer. It is important here to note that the more air a material traps inside of it, the warmer it will be. For this reason, a nice thick fleece top and bottom works very well. Polyester or polypropylene fleece will help sweat move from your next-to-skin layer toward your outer layer. Fleece is also very light weight and because of the design of the fleece fibers it traps a lot of air in the material itself. As a general rule, the thicker insulating layer, the warmer it will be. Finally, your third and outer layer will provide you with a waterproof, windproof barrier. This layer is referred to in the outdoor industry as your "shell" layer. Like your second layer, the functionality of your shell will depend on what you are doing. If it's going to be snowing hard on you or if there is a chance that you could get wet, then you would want to have a waterproof shell. If a material is waterproof, then it will also be windproof. One of the problems with most waterproof materials is a lack of breathability. Gore-Tex® and eVent® fabrics are popular waterproof/breathable materials used in high quality shells. While these fabrics are breathable, the breathability is still somewhat limited. These fabrics perform very well during lower endurance activities while performance is moderate at high activity. If you don't think that there's a chance of getting wet, then you might opt for the popular "soft shell," a stretchy windproof fleece shell that is often treated with a water resistant coating to provide additional protection. One of the primary benefits of the soft shell is increased flexibility as well as breathability. The layering techniques presented here are really meant to provide an awareness of the proper dress system for cold weather. It is important to adapt these ideas to your particular need. Emerging fabric technology is constantly changing the way we dress. You might be surprised to know that many of the fabrics used to make high fashion dress today originated in the outdoor industry. Now, don't hibernate this winter. Find an opportunity to get out and enjoy the outdoors. If you dress properly, you will stay warm and enjoy yourself no matter what the activity. About the author: Darron Robbins President of OuterSports, LLC http://outersports.com Posted Apr 26 2006, 03:25 PM by accorie with no comments

• Encountering Bears in the Wild- A Few Simple Tips

  When in the national parks or any wilderness area participating in your favorite outdoor adventures, take precautions with wildlife. Never approach a wild animal or try to feed it anything. Always remember that they are wild and therefore, unpredictable. Respecting that will go a long way in keeping you and your loved ones safe. Always check with the park rangers as to animal behavior in that particular park and follow their instructions. Not all animals are alike in their behavior, especially bears. These are just guidelines, not definitive actions. Again check with your park rangers.   You need to take extreme precautions with regards to bears. Visitors to the parks and other wilderness areas always seem to want to see a bear and feel it is the highlight of their trip if they chance to get a photo of one. But an important factor that you need to remember is that bears are WILD animals and therefore, unpredictable. It is overlooking this factor that generally gets people in trouble. They may look somewhat cute and cuddly, but did you get a good look at those claws?   Bears do not like surprises, so letting the bear know ahead of time that you are around is generally better then coming upon them unawares. To this extent, it is better to travel in a group and make some noise as you hike through the woods. It is best to avoid trails that you know ahead of time they frequent, but if you just have to pass that way, be on the alert. Try and avoid heavy brush areas and if possible, travel with the wind at your back so your scent will be carried ahead of you giving further fore-warning. It is reported that bears see almost as well as humans, but depend on their sense of smell more.   It is true, that for the most part, bears have a natural fear of humans. That is why when you meet one and make a lot of noise or throw rocks at it, the bear usually just runs away. But what if you have a bear that is habituated to humans? That is when you are likely to have more problems. I can’t stress enough here to NEVER feed bears or any other wild animals. First of all, our food is not good for them and secondly, it causes them to associate food with humans and they become a “nuisance” bear and often have to be destroyed by park and wilderness rangers. This includes keeping a clean camp and securing all food and scented items in bear-proof containers (my preferred choice) or by hanging them with bear wire at least 12 feet high and 10 feet out from a tree. Now all you have to do is find a suitable tree…hmm, I guess I’ll stick with the bear-proof container! They are not that heavy, have proven to work well and are becoming more readily available at the parks to rent or be loaned.   Bears are always on the lookout for food as they have only a few months to store up fat reserves for the winter hibernation. Even scented toiletries may bring a curious bear to your camp. Avoid cooking smelly food such as bacon and fish, although a friend of mine that runs a wilderness camp in Katmai National Park and Preserve swears that they can cook anything but fish up there (even steaks) and the bears will leave them alone. Another proof of the difference in bear behavior in different areas of the country. Don’t sleep in the clothes you cooked in and never cook in or near you tent. Keep all garbage at least 100 yards from your tent, out of the reach of bears. Don’t bother trying to bury garbage because the bears will only dig it up.   Camp at least 1/8 mile from any trails, especially game trails. Be extremely cautious around streams where salmon runs are common. If you happen to be fishing when you encounter a bear, put the pole down. If you have a fish on the line, try and keep it from jumping, or cut the line. If a bear learns that it can get food by approaching a fisherman, it will return for more.   There has been a lot said about pepper spray in use with bear encounters. This or an air horn will work well, but the spray must be deployed correctly. You have to be at least 6-8 yards from a bear for it to be effective. I don’t know about you, but that’s awfully close, since it is recommended you stay at least 100 yards away from a wild animal. Also, it takes a cool hand to be able to use it correctly. Please be very familiar with the use of pepper spray before you use it. If sprayed upwind, it could easily incapacitate you and not the bear! Note that these cans are under pressure so if you are flying into an area, let the pilot know you have a can with you so it can be stored properly.   If you do encounter a bear, remain calm and don’t run. Like dogs, bears will often chase fleeing animals and you can't outrun a bear. They have been clocked at speeds up to 35 mph! Let the bear know you are human. Talk to it in a normal voice and wave your arms slowly or clap your hands.  Don’t stare them in the face as it might be interpreted as a sign of aggression. Turn your head away slightly. But here again, bears differ in different areas of the country. Some experts report that with certain bears it is better to look them in the eyes.   If a bear cannot tell what you are, it may come closer or stand on its hind legs to get a better look or smell. A standing bear is usually curious – not threatening. Move away slowly, but don’t turn your back. If the bear follows, stop and hold your ground. If the bear gets too close, raise your voice and be more aggressive. Make louder noise by banging pots and pans or using other noisemakers, but never imitate bear sounds or make a high-pitched squeal. Try and make your self or your group look bigger then the bear. If a bear charges don’t run! Bears often make bluff charges, sometimes to within 10 feet of their adversary, without making contact. Usually if you hold your ground they will back off. Never drop your pack either, especially if it contains food.   In rare instances black bears perceive humans as prey – if you are attacked by a black bear fight back. Try to focus your attack on the bear’s eyes and nose. If you are attacked by a brown bear or a grizzly, surrender! Chances are it is only trying to neutralize a perceived threat. Fall to the ground and play dead. Lie flat on your stomach, or curl up in a ball with your hands behind your neck. Typically, a brown bear will break off its attack once it feels the threat has been eliminated. If possible, remain motionless until the bear has left the area. If the bear sees you move or hears you, it may return and renew its attack. If the bear continues biting you long after you assume a defensive posture, fight back vigorously. If a black or grizzly bear attacks at night while you're in a tent, fight back aggressively with fists or solid objects.   I want to again stress that bears differ just like people. What one animal will do in one set of circumstances, another will behave differently. It is always best to listen to the advice of the rangers in the area you will be hiking or camping. The visitor stations almost always have free pamphlets that give tips for animals in their area. Take time to get these and read them before you head out on your trek. You can also check out our Wildlife Precautions Page on our website for further animal encounter tips.   By Corie Marks Posted Apr 25 2006, 05:04 PM by accorie with 1 comment(s)

• Grilled Pizza-great for your first night out!

  Pizza Dough-Prepare and freeze before you leave. 1 cup warm water 1 pkg active dry yeast or 2 ¼ tsps instant yeast 1 tsp sugar 2 tsp salt 3 tbsp corn meal, fine grain 3 tbsp whole-wheat flour 3-3 ½ cups all-purpose flour 2 tbsp olive oil   1)      If using active dry yeast, place water in a large bowl and add the sugar and yeast. Stir to dissolve and let sit for five minutes. This lets you know the yeast is alive if you can see it bubbling slightly. If you are using instant yeast, you can add it with your dry ingredients. (I always use this as it saves me the five minute proofing step.) Note: Instant yeast can be purchased at the grocery store, but the best value comes with purchasing it in bulk either at a specialty store or online. Next, add the salt, cornmeal, whole-wheat and oil. Gradually add enough all-purpose flour to form a dough that comes away from the sides of the bowl. Knead the dough, either by hand on a floured surface, by food processor or by a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, until smooth and elastic, about 6-8 minutes. When you stick your finger in the dough it should spring back and not be too sticky. 2)      Lightly oil a large bowl and place the dough in bowl, turning once to grease the top. Cover loosely with greased plastic wrap and a clean towel and place in a draft-free, warm spot to rise until doubled in bulk. This could take 1-2 hours. Punch down the dough and divide into 2 equal pieces. Shape them into a ball and then flatten them. Double wrap them in plastic wrap and then foil and stick in the freezer until you’re ready to go camping. Freezing the dough allows you some time to get to your camping site and lets you use this for your first dinner out.   Making the pizzas.   Toppings: Virtually unlimited since this is your first night out and you don't really have to worry about storage. Feel free to prep as much as you want before you leave also. Tomatoes Onions Garlic Green Peppers Pepperoni Squeeze bottle of pizza sauce (optional) Olive oil Sausage (fry it up ahead of time) Mozzarella cheese, shredded Pecorino Romano, 1/3 cup shredded Anything else you like and want to bring along.   1)      You’re going to preheat your grill so that one end is high and the other end is medium. If you are using charcoal, arrange coals in a double layer on one side and a single layer on the other side. 2)      If you want tomatoes, cut them cross-wise into ½ inch thick slices. Brush with a small amount oil and salt and pepper them. Quickly char them on the hot side of the grill, turning with a spatula after about 2 minutes. Let cool. You could do this with onions, portabellas and peppers. 3)      Now, the easiest thing to use for the crust forming is to use a Silpat mat and a flat rock. You could use a cookie sheet, but hey, we’re trying to rough it here and who wants to lug one around! Place a little bit of flour on the mat and pat/stretch out your dough to form a rugged rectangle, around 12-13x9 inches. Work with only one piece at a time. 4)      Gently lift the piece with two hands and place it on the hot side of the grill. After about a minute the bottom will begin to darken and the top will start to puff. Flip it over with tongs or 2 spatulas and slide it to the cooler side. 5)      Quickly brush, or rub with your fingers, the top with olive oil and scatter garlic over this. You could also add pizza sauce, but go easy with this as it will make it messier. Next add your toppings (have them ready) starting with the cheese first. I know, this is backwards from the usual pizza, but after all this IS grilled pizza. Not your norm. You can then drizzle it with more olive oil and add salt and pepper. 6)      Slide the pizza back over to the hot side and cook another 2 to 4 minutes, rotating it to insure even cooking. The bottom will be slightly charred and the cheese should be melted. 7)      Remove from the grill and slice into pieces. Enjoy it as you make up the second one the same way, or not. The idea is you really can have it your way! Don’t omit the grilled tomatoes as they are fantastic on this!   Serves 2- 4 depending on appetites. Posted Apr 11 2006, 08:10 AM by accorie with 1 comment(s) Filed under: Camping recipes